Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000
Subject: AT Update 8/17

Hi,

I'm now in the town of Gorham, New Hampshire, about 16 miles from the Maine border.  The library access I'm using is limited to a very short time, so I apologize to those who sent me messages, but I barely had time to read them, much less reply.  Will try to respond later.  Actually, since the towns in Maine I'll be stopping at are quite small, I'm not sure if I'll find email access again before Katahdin, but we'll see...

I worried and fretted about how to get through the AMC hut system in the Whites (White Mountains), but the experience turned out to be quite pleasant.  I did work-for-stay at Lake of the Clouds, Madison Springs, and Carter Notch, which earned me a bunk space and the right to polish off leftovers with the hut crews.  The crews, mostly college kids, were all very friendly.

The mountains themselves were often in and out of the clouds but I'm thankful that I didn't have to walk along the exposed ridges in 70 mph winds with sleet or hail pelting my face.  I had some great views off of Franconia Ridge after the tough climb up.  And while overcast, I actually got some views from atop Mount Washington before the clouds rolled in.

The other Northbounders and I have found the Trail much more challenging of late.  The descent down from Mt. Moosilauke on the Beaver Brook trail was probably the scariest thing I've done so far.  I have to say, though, that I was impressed with the work done to place wooden steps on some of the rock faces that made the trail passable.  In the Presidentials, I only did a 7-mile day between Lake of the Clouds and Madison, but it felt like enough.  Hopping from rock to rock all day is hard on the knees and feet.  I've promised mine an extra day here in town as a reward for carrying me through.

I know I mentioned last time that I was feeling a bit weak, but I believe that has gotten better.  When I went into North Woodstock to resupply, we had dinner at 5:00pm, and then went out for dinner again at 8:30pm!  Whereas before I was getting inexplicably tired, going through the Whites has left me justifyably tired.  Maine will be tough too, but I know I can handle it.

It's nice to be near home and seeing both new places along the Trail, and familiar ones I've visited before.  At this point I have about 300 miles of trail left to complete.  I will not be doing any high-mile days through this country, and there is no need to.  Maine is, of course, the most beautiful State along the AT, and I intend to enjoy it.