Date: Tue, 9 May 2000
Subject: AT Update 5/9

Hi Everbody,

This is another group message, and I'm going to try to keep it short because Yahoo Mail seemed to crash when I tried to use it a couple hours ago and this is the first time I've gotten back in.

I have reached the town of Damascus, VA.  This is at the Southern end of where the AT passes through Virginia.  It represents a big milestone for me, just as it does for the Northbounders.  For me it means I have hiked about 550 miles, or one quarter of the entire AT.  It also means I will finally be finishing Virginia.  Because the Trail cuts accross the state on a diagonal, it has more miles in this state than in any of the 13 others.  It's not that I haven't enjoyed Virginia, it's just nice to be moving on.

I have been crossing paths with increasing numbers of Northbound thru-hikers.  For a while, each was convinced that just behind him there was a horde of 2000 or more.  Now, some of them say they think many have dropped off the trail.  I do know that the last few shelters I stayed at on my way into Damascus were filled to capacity, with many more tenting in the surrounding area.  In about 10 days there will be a big party for AT thru-hikers in Damascus called, "Trail Days".  The town will fill up with current hikers, and ones from past years.  By that time I hope to be many miles South of here.  Although it's possible I might catch a ride back here, my main goal is to wade through the remaining Northbounders on the Trail until I can find some breathing room South of the late starters.

The weather has turned "unseasonably warm" the last few days.  I know I complained before about those freezing mornings, but they usually led to crisp chilly days that made for good hiking.  Now I find I have attained a new level of hiker stink, with the added sweat.  And water is more critical.  I have to carry more, and be sure of finding sources along the way.

At higher elevations, the trees still don't have leaves, but signs of Spring are abundant elsewhere.  It seems like every few days I see new varieties of wildflowers.  Also with the heat, bugs have become an annoyance for the first time.  I'm hoping this is just a first flush that will lessen with time.

I no longer have to begin each day by applying layers of Spenco Second Skin, Moleskin, and Duct Tape to my heels, because my blisters have changed into callouses.  My legs are stronger, although I notice I can no longer go from a kneeling crouch to standing without a boost from my hands.  My feet still ache by the end of every day, but I now realize that everyone else's do too.  I started to notice that the Northbounders hobble around the shelters the same way I do, and that somehow made me feel better.

Many of the Northbounders are of the opinion that Virginia is much easier hiking than what they encountered previously.  That means I may be in for some rough trail ahead.  On the other hand, whatever place you start probably seems toughest just because you're not in shape yet and you haven't trimmed down the weight of your pack.  In the end it doesn't matter:  wherever the AT goes I will have to plod along it - uphill, level, or down - smooth dirt or loose pointy rocks.

I look forward to completing the Southern half and reaching the summit of Springer Mtn.  I have been able to bump up the mileage I cover each day and now feel confident that I can keep on track to finish on time.  Hiking in the opposite direction from everybody else has allowed me to meet many more people than I would have otherwise.  The trouble is, I only meet them for one day.  When I flip-flop and join the Northbounders back at Harper's Ferry, I will have a chance to get to know a small group of the thru-hikers much better.

I appreciate your support and encouragement.  This is an odd thing to do with 6 months of one's life, and it continues to surprise me why anyone else would take an interest.  I hope you all have an enjoyable summer that includes some appreciation of the world of nature, while maintaining a much higher level of personal hygiene.