Hugo's / DuckFat
"The idea [for Duckfat] came of necessity, a combination of survival and maybe a little boredom. Sometimes you hit a plateau and you need to bring something new to the plate."
Hugo's is an award-winning Portland restaurant that once a year celebrates the Maine potato with a sumptuous dinner. Across the street at DuckFat, a European-style fried potato and panini shop, owners Nancy Pugh and Rob Evans celebrate the potato daily.
"After five years of Hugo's, we had enjoyed a lot of attention and received enormous international press. But this is also part of the creative urge … it keeps you on your toes, always thinking, 'What next? What else do people want?'"
DuckFat's Belgian potato fries are fried in duck fat - twice! - which gives them an incredible richness and flavor. Served with homemade dipping sauces including horseradish mayo, garlic aioli, mustard mayo and truffle ketchup - outstanding.
Or try the hot and crispy pressed Long Island Duck Confit panini sandwich with herbed goat cheese & balsamic golden raisins - delicious!
"Our purveyors are people who forage and grow things here in Maine. Our menu reflects the changing seasons in Maine, not the seasons in France."
Pugh's commitment to using to local produce and the freshest ingredients gives both DuckFat and Hugo's a flavorful edge. Their duck confit salad, served in both restaurants, typifies their commitment to using local organic ingredients. At Hugo's, this signature dish is a generous bowl of frisee greens sprinkled with pieces of thick applewood bacon and shredded pieces of flavorful duck. It is crowned, surprisingly, with a hot, lightly poached egg.
At first the salad is dominated by the flavors of salty bacon and dense meaty duck. An occasional burst of sweetness from dried plums and the an unusual ginger-maple vinaigrette provides contrast to the crunchy tangle of greens below. The yolk seeps down, creating a voluptuously smooth yellow sauce, at once delicate and silky to the palate. This is a nuanced, multi-dimensional dish; a less complex but equally flavorful version is offered at DuckFat.
"We in the Portland restaurant community are fortunate to be able to march to the beat of our own drum," says Pugh. "It's a lot of compromise, being able to balance a life in business and a consciousness, but for us it has been very rewarding."
Natasha's / Mim's
"This experience has just been me in a continuous state of response to everything - always wanting to do more, always craving change."
Natasha Durham has re-invented her restaurants several times with great success and originality. Her history includes Bintliff's, Natasha's on Portland Street, the current Natasha's on Exchange Street, and now, Mim's Brasserie on Commercial Street.
"I respond to ingredients the way an artist responds to a blank canvas. You put down a piece of color, stand back, put down another piece of color . . . it doesn't work to have preconceived notions about what something is going to be."
Natasha's Dim Sum tray has all the drama and visual interest one would expect from an artist. Her Korean vegetable dumplings with ginger tamari are delicate, crispy skinned with robust Asian flavor. The tray also includes sesame edamame (soy beans) with coarse sea salt, a small portion of rare beef tenderloin, and delicate shrimp wontons with a tangy mustard sauce.
Natasha's Chipotle Mussels are emphatically flavorful and rich. And speaking of rich, try her foie gras with brulée of pear - the pear is carmelized perfectly, a sweet complement to the creamy texture and dense flavor of the foie gras.
Mim's occupies a wonderful building with an ocean view from the large second floor deck. Natasha understands the value of a beautiful space. The restaurant is gracious and comfortable, with blond wood lighting (yes, lighting!) and simple table settings.
Mim's salmon was expertly prepared, pearly pink on the outside and deep sunset on the inside. We sampled her sautéed spinach, redolent of garlic, cauliflower with bacon lardon, delicious! A delicate herbed risotto with parmesan is also available, as is a wonderful twice-baked spinach soufflé.
Meats and produce served at Mim's are naturally raised and local; fish selections change according to season and availability.
Try her Chevre Cheesecake, tangy and rich, and her famous chocolate Pots de Créme, satisfyingly silky and voluptuous. Mmm.
"My beliefs? That the customer is always right. And that the universe will support me if I do my very best."
. . . . .
Rachel's Wood Grille / Rachel's Hosteria
"Ours was a creative change - of style, pace and of space."
Rachel's Hosteria on Woodford Street began as the former Rachel's Wood Grille on Exchange Street in Portland. Owner / chef Laura Butler says that the move was born both of choice and necessity:
"We moved from Exchange Street where the atmosphere was formal and rushed, to Woodford Street, into a real neighborhood. Exactly what we were looking for - more personal, more hands-on. The neighborhood accepted us with open arms."
Rachel's glowing Risotto con Zucca e Olio di Tartufo is a creamy and delicate risotto laced with a coarse squash puree, parmegiano reggiano cheese, finished with a decadent drizzle of truffle oil. Here she strikes a perfect balance between subtle yet distinctive flavors and pillow-soft creamy consistency. Redefining "comfort food," this dish is pure satisfaction.
"To tell you the truth, in the decision-making process, we had fallen in love with Italy, the relaxed pace and style of Italian dining. That's why our menu ranges from substantial portions down to small appetizers. We are trying to be accessible to everyone,"Come in! Have a glass of wine!"
Bob Butler has assembled an award-winning wine list that is both user-friendly and extensive. He is more than willing to make recommendations and encourages tasting to a reasonable degree.
From the bolder side of the menu, their Polpettone di Umbria is an oversized meatball of lamb, beef, pork, and lentils, dramatic, flavorful, meaty and robust. Served crowning a substantial serving of buttery mashed potatoes, this is a dish your mother would have made - if your mother could cook.
"Our philosophy is simply this: the sheer joy of eating! I can't imagine doing anything else. When we travel, I'm always itching to plunge back in and cook. It's in your blood, I think."
Portions at Rachel's are generous and the food is unabashedly rich, so be warned. "Double Chocolate Pudding" is a decadent chocolate massage of dark chocolate mousse and homemade whipped cream with both white and dark chocolate drizzle. Chocolate chunks are added for the joy of sheer excess. Topped with a dewy purple orchid.
"Back in the early days, people would always assume that Bob was the chef. A woman chef was a 'surprise.' People are much more accepting now, but early-on, it was difficult." She adds, "They're never surprised by a woman chef in Italy!"
. . . . . .
I am encouraged by the courage and creativity of these women, and their ability to embrace growth, risk, and change. As always, I close with two words of advice: Reservations Recommended.
Natasha's
82 Exchange St., Portland
(207) 774-4004
Mim's
205 Commercial St., Portland
(207) 347-7478
Hugo's
88 Middle Street, Portland
(207) 774-8538
DuckFat
43 Middle Street, Portland
(207) 774-8080
Rachel's L'Hosteria
496 Woodford Street, Portland
(207) 774-1192