Nakamichi CD40Z Headunit mounted in the Glove box

Earthquake PH150.2  -  1,000 Watt, 4 channel

JBL BP600.1  -  600 Watt, 1 channel

Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 12" subwoofer

Custom down-firing 1 cu. ft. enclosure

JBL Power Series 9x6  -  #9632  (Mounted on the package shelf)

JBL GTO Series 6.5"  -  # GTO-620  (Mounted in the kick panels)

Monster wire and fuses

Tubular Automotive Custom Fabricated Headers

Jet Coated

1 7/8" Primaries

3.5" Collectors

Flowmaster 40 Series Mufflers

2 1/2" Exhaust  

Stainless Tips Exit Under Rear Bumper

Holley Fuel Pump

Holley Regulator

Filter

Barry Grant braided lines to carb

3/8" Fuel lines

Boss Crankshaft

Internally Balanced Crankshaft

Winston Cup Balancer

Australian Long Rods

Floating Wrist Pins

Ross Forged Pistons (11:1)

Zero Gap Rings

Hamburger Double Roller Chain

Windage Try & Crank Scraper

Moroso 9 Qt. Oil Pan

Comp Cams Custom Grind Extreme Energy Flat-Tappet

Lift:          I - .554   E - .569         

Duration:  I -  230   E -  236

Lobe Separation:  110

3/8 Hardened Push Rods

The motor was assembled and dyno'd by Bob Bailey at Hi-Torque.  While most of what they build are Chevy motors, Bob use to build and race Clevelands back in the 70's.

The heads flowed 311 @ .600.  Not bad for a set of factory iron heads.  Won't see many small block street cars with that kind of flow.

On the dyno the motor pulled 475 HP @ 6,600 RPM, and 430 TQ @ 5,100 RPM.  The motor was still building HP when we stopped the pulls at 6,600 RPM.  It was picking up about 6 HP for each 100 RPM at the point we shut it down.  The motor is built to turn 8K RPM so it's anyone guess what the peak HP really is.  I'm running a very mild cam so it would probably run out around 7K RPM.

The dyno showed the motor being seriously over-carbureted.  To the point the plugs were so severely fouled I couldn't restart the motor once I got it in the Falcon.  I have since replace the Holley 850 DP with a Barry Grant 750 Mighty Demon and a 2" open spacer.  I believe the motor now easily puts out 500+ HP.

Ford Motorsport Ignition Box

8,000 RPM Rev Limiter

MSD Billet Distributor

Nelson Specialties Coil

GM Single Wire Alternator

Griffin 26" Aluminum Radiator

Ford Motorsport Aluminum Water pump

2 - 10" Perma-Cool Electric Fans

The small block C6 has been modified with a TCI Master Racing Kit

The converter is a 10" TCI Street Fighter.  Locks at

3,500 RPM.

A B&M ProStick controls the C6.  Attached to the shifter are the line lock power and activation buttons.  It's topped off with a custom knob from KoolKnobs with a RatFink molded into the plastic.  Very cool!

The line lock is between the master and the front brake lines.

Because of the box tube frame and tight exhaust system the e-brake cable & hardware became a problem.  I unhooked the caliper e-brake assembly and installed a pinion yoke e-brake from Total Performance, Inc.  Very slick setup that uses a disk & caliper mounted on the pinion.  It has a much simpler cable setup that attached to the Falcon lever.

From the rear seat, from outer fender to outer fender, the entire chassis was removed.  I designed a box tube frame (2"x 3" tube) that runs from the front frame rails to the rear of the body.   Since I wanted to keep a stock interior and back seat it was necessary to run the crossmember under the driveshaft.  The center section is removable so that the driveshaft can be dropped. 

Trying to keep the car somewhat period correct ( in appearance) I didn't want to remove the shock towers.  To make room for the 351C I installed the Crites shock tower relocation kit.  This kit is very high quality and fit as advertised.  It is designed for the 64 - 65 cars so it did require a bit of addition fabrication to fit the roundbody Falcon.  This kit substantially strengthens the shock towers and has a very beefy crossmember.

The gas tank has been replace with a 16 gallon foam filled fuel cell.  This uses a GM sending unit.  I attached it to the Falcon vent tube.  At this point I'm only using one fuel feed.  If/when I replace my regulator with something better I use the other feed for the return line.  The cell is placed in the trunk to provide room underneath for the exhaust system.

I have to thank Mark Meserve at Flying Five Motorsports for the absolutely outrageous front suspension!  The entire setup is custom fabricated for my car.  Tubular control arms, coilovers, custom strut rods, and tierods.  The entire setup uses heim joints.  There are no more ball joints.  The geometry has been changed for optimum performance.  This setup is used on oval track cars.  Lucky Me!

The rear suspension is made up of Art Morrison components (coilovers, ladder bars, brackets, and panhard).  The narrowed 9" has disk brakes, Strange 31 spline axles, Richmond 3.89 gears, and a Detroit Locker with Cosworth springs.

All of the Falcon gauges have been replaced with AutoMeter peices.  I kept the Falcon dash cluster, but used an aluminum plate to hold the new gauges and indicator lights.  The tack is small enough to mount on the dash and has an internal shift light.  I wanted a dash mount tach for visibility, but the large monster type tachs are too bulky.

I have replace most of the interior:  kickpanels, door panels, rear quarter panels, carpets, floor mats, headliner, and dome light.  The shift collar has been replace with one form a Mustang.

The buckets and rear seats have been re-done by Leo's Custom Auto Upholstery.  They are very similar, yet different than the originals.  The pleated sections are done in tweed.  This has a very 50's look. The foams have been replaced as well.

The painted trim pieces that cover the A-pillar and go around the tops of the doors and rear window have been chrome plated.  This is a subtle change but looks very sharp.

Most of the other interior chrome needs to be re-plated or replaced.  I will have this done this winter (2005).  This includes the door handles, window cranks, dash trim, and door panel trim.

The steering wheel is Grant model # 966 and the installation kit # 4266 is required.  This wood wheel looks like it belongs in a 60's vintage streetrod.  It is smaller than the factory wheel and is much more comfortable.

The car is presently at Maine Auto Cosmetics.  It is being stripped, rust repaired, body lines straightened, and painted Viper red.  Both rear wheel wells have been patch with panels from a donor car.  Overall the body was solid with little rust damage. 

All of the chrome, stainless, and anodized aluminum has been either replaced or refinished.  New England Chrome Plating in CT did all of the chrome work.  The quality of work is excellent.  I replaced the door handles, emblems, and scripts.  The large chrome Falcons on the side of the front fenders have been re-plated. 

The rear wheels are 15 x 10 American Racing Torque Thrust-D with N50 15 Mickey Thompson Indy Profile tires.  These tire have an 11" tread width.  there is room in the tubs for a wider tire, but for street driving I felt these were enough.

The front wheels are 14 x 6 Crager SS.  These wheels are junk!  I like the chrome look, but the uni-lug setup is awful.  At some point I may replace them with Torque Thrust-D wheels.

The frame is made of 2x3 box tube.  I designed it in a way to keep the back seat (I wanted a stock looking interior).  It was necessary to make the crossmember run under the driveshaft otherwise it would interfere with the seat.  The center of the crossmember is removable so that the driveshaft can be dropped.  The frame runs from the front frame rails to the rear of the car.  The old chassis/frame was removed from rear seat to rear of the body, from outside fender to outside fender.

The tubs are a kit from Summit Racing.  Nice quality, easy to assemble, and made of steel.  They are cut to fit.  Once the frame as in place I installed the tubs and filled in with sheet metal.  The tubs are spot welded to the outer fender.

The factory antenna has been replaced with a generic aftermarket power antenna.  This fits in the original location.  A simple modification that cleans up the lines of the car.

The Crites shock tower relocation kit provides additional room for the 351C.  The Cleveland will fit without this modification, but it is very tight.  The kit is very high quality and fits well.  It does require some minor modification as it is intended for the 64-65 cars.  This significantly strengthens the shock towers.  It has a very beefy crossmember and brackets for the lower control arm mount points.  I like the kit because it provides needed room yet keeps the period correct look with the shock towers.

The fiberglass hood with teardrop scoop is from Crties Restoration.  Very nice quality, with reinforced mount points for the hinges and latch.  I've added lock pins to keep the front tight.   The hood weighs next to nothing, must be a tenth of the factory hood.  The teardrop provides room for the Funnelweb intake, carb. spacer, and air cleaner.  This helps evacuate hot air from the tight engine bay.